Showing posts with label Jewellery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jewellery. Show all posts

11 October 2014

Aesthetic Fixation X Shanna Muston: Wooden Memories


Words and Creative Direction: Saskia Edwards
Images: Jonathan Rae 

Wood is part of so many foundations; warmth, shelter, life. It holds memories and bends with memories. Shanna Muston explores this nostalgia in her small objects and jewellery. They're comprised of silver and pieces of timber from Queenslanders. These iconic buildings have created a shared memory for thousands of people who can reminisce on squeaking floors, ribbons of wind escaping through cracks in boards and all the verandas that are different but the same. The memories held in Shanna's jewellery are as much my memories as much as they are your memories as much as they are everyone's memories - sinking into the same colours, sounds and emotions. 


3 August 2014

Sustainable decoration: Artisan’s Greensmith exhibition


Words: Saskia Edwards
Images: Jonathan Rae

Marshall Mcluhan famously coined the phrase, “the medium is the message”. Meaning, that in fact the medium to communicate a message can be more impactful than the content of a message itself.

Artisan’s Greensmith exhibition is a collaboration between Queensland and Californian jewellers. The pieces all have the underlying unifying themes of sustainability, environmental consciousness and preservation.

Of course, the medium to express those concepts is through jewellery – from intricate silver adornments to large plastic sculptural neckpieces.

And in this case it seems that the medium is as important as the message. As if this didacticism needs to be seen in this form – that the destructive practices of humanity can be better understood through something beautiful and yet sustainable.

Kathleen Hunt’s serpentine neckpiece is featured in the exhibition. It effortlessly drapes across the mannequin but also sits with rigid structure.

For Kathleen, the jewellery itself is crucial in expressing an idea.

“Now we tend to virtually adorn ourselves with trophies – essentially, don’t we?

“‘Look what I’ve got, and my watch, and my gorgeous earrings and my this and my that.’ So I’m actually turning that around and rather than saying, ‘this is a trophy’, saying, ‘now well this is what we’ve done and we have to wear the consequences of it’.”

The sculptural piece is created primarily through deconstructed coat hangers.

“My sister works in retail and she kept bringing home these beautiful Birchwood coat hangers.

“And the thing about these hangers is because they had a name on them, they didn’t even hit the racks in the shops, they were just used for transportation and then they were discarded.”

In fact, each year around eight billion coat hangers are produced – enough to fill the Empire State Building more than four times. Kathleen’s practice draws attention to this gross waste and overproduction. Yet her piece is beautiful, which is somewhat contradictory as the iridescent gleam of the hangers is a result of the heavy metal used to create them – chrome. It’s as if artificial beauty is inherently noxious.

Kathleen is intent on keeping her materials as raw as possible. In fact, the naturalness of the manufactured products is enhanced by the Fibonacci pattern seen throughout nature, which is used in her neckpiece.

“I won’t force the material to do anything that isn’t in its nature and I think if we look throughout our landscape and took the same approach, things would be different.

“If we stopped forcing our environment to be something that it’s not.”

Kathleen’s sculpture, along with all the other artists at Greensmith highlights the environmental degradation caused by humanity’s insatiable consumption. And the message is in the medium – the works prove that not only can jewellery be sustainable, but it proves the ugliness of mass consumption.


As Kathleen says: “I think that’s the job of the artist – to notice change and to bring it to attention.”



 



12 July 2014

Bloods

 
Images: Jonathan Rae
Words and styling: Saskia Edwards
Jewellery: Teresa Lee
Model: Gabz Tumataroa

What’s ugly? What’s beautiful?

Can scabs, blood, decaying flesh be adornments?

Well, Teresa Lee’s jewellery is beautiful.

But look a little closer, her grills are rotten, her rings are deformed and her earrings are tarnished with blood and intestines.

Teresa: “Some of these pieces have scrunched and tangled hair that resembles hair from a shower plughole.

“It is interesting how parts of our body can be attached at one moment and then treated like rubbish and thrown in the bin the next moment.”

If you look even closer, you can see faces in the silver. Teresa took old photographs, buried them with blood, dug them up five days later and transferred the warped images onto silver.

“Well the whole concept was, some of our family just ditched us because I don’t know, well I do know.

“But you think family sticks together, but apparently not.

“The blood was representing the deterioration of the relationship, but it was a family relationship. “

The blood is about Teresa’s DNA.

The locks allude to the Victorian Era’s mourning jewellery, for the death of family relationships.

And the imperfections on the photographs are about loss.

“The messing up the photos was to show the memories meant nothing.”

Teresa’s grills are part of a more recent series. They’re meant to evoke disgust.

“The mouth is not clean, it is full bacteria, yet there is still hesitation to put a clean and safe, although apparently gross, grill in the mouth.”

But in fact within the perceived grotesques of these concepts lies the beauty of Teresa’s work.

It’s a forced reconsideration of what’s beautiful.

Are pictures of vanity that permeate modern internet culture real beauty?

Maybe these images are more repugnant than scars or disfigurements.

Maybe our idols reach deity status for superficiality and hollow morals.


Perhaps marred skin has more beauty than the self-absorption of perfection.







5 June 2014

Luke Maninov Jewellery: Anatomy and Adornment


Words/Creative Direction: Saskia Edwards
Images: Jonathan Rae

There’re a couple hundred bones in the human body. This intricate and beautifully diverse structure is a key inspiration for jewellery designer Luke Maninov.

But nothing compares to the anatomy of the brain. The organ shapes human existence, controls memory, emotion and creativity and continues body functions.

Luke Maninov is also an imaging neuroscientist. Beyond skeletal anatomy, Luke’s designs are laced with references to his work with the brain.

“I’ve been working in biomedical science and neuroimaging for over 10 years now.

“I’ve been drawing a lot of inspiration from that for my work, so like looking at the anatomy of things and bringing that into the neural form.

“A lot of the work I do is very three-dimensional and is very visual and so that plays into my work too.”

It’s not just human anatomy; animal form is also a motif throughout Luke’s work.

“It’s bringing together all the organic forms into something that is wearable and has an aesthetic beauty.”




Luke’s designs are hard to characterise as a whole. Ostensibly, they seem gothic with an underlying Holbein-esque momento mori theme. But really much of his work appears almost beguiling, like a kind of magical distortion of reality. You can see this in his metal flowerbeds, oxidised seahorses and warped bones.

It’s also hard to define if Luke’s works are gendered.

“Definitely unisex.

"There’s definitely pieces that are more masculine or more feminine.

“Sometimes people ask, 'Is this for men or is this for women?' because they’re not sure if they should like it, but my work is just what it is.”

Many of Luke’s initial designs are drawn then moulded in wax.

“A lot of my work is done in wax because it’s so easy to work with, carve and meld, and add layers and layers to get really intricate pieces and then I cast into mostly silver.”

Looking forward, Luke wants expand his artistic work.

“The projects I’m working on are becoming bigger scale, so I’m starting with small sculpture work and much more finer work.

“So I’m still doing jewellery, but I’m moving towards more technically complex pieces.”

Luke’s works will be at the Draw Me a Discovery exhibition at Bleeding Heart CafĂ© from June 16 and in a Queensland and San Francisco artist collaboration at Gallery One from July 4.


Here and there you can see his intriguing and complex designs: combining anatomy and adornment.












14 February 2014

Bianca Mavrick Jewellery 'The Maximalist'



Words and Styling: Saskia Edwards 
Photos: Jonathan Rae
All Accesories: Bianca Mavrick Jewellery
Model: Eloise Breskvar
Make-up and Hair: Carly Lim 
Assistant: Miguel Aquilizan

Jewellery has appeared in almost every society since the dawn of culture. The magnificent gems embellishing Cleopatra, Marie Antoinette and Elizabeth Taylor were for no practical reason. In fact, they were laced with meanings of power, importance and beauty. Jewellery is for the supernatural – a temporal link to the transcendental. Jewellery’s form is ever changing and its definition is elusive. But consistently and perhaps necessarily it fulfils one purpose: to adorn.