Future Beauty at GOMA: From Kimono to Kawaii

 
Words: Saskia Edwards

Images: Supplied where specified, when not specified; Jonathan Rae.

It’s not new to remark on the coexistence of the traditional and the progressive in Japan.

In fact, you could say that is what defines much of the country’s cultural identity.

It’s a place where it is as common to see Cosplay as it is a Kimono.

The synergy of this dualism is no more evident than in fashion.

Every young designer has a love affair with Rei Kawakubo, who manages to combine the tradition of fine craftsmanship while effortlessly expanding the boundaries of design. 

At GOMA’s Future Beauty exhibition this concept is explored through a curation of 30 years of Japanese fashion.

“And really at the core of the exhibition is this balance between tradition and innovation, so you have this really strong sense of a unique Japanese sensibility but also cutting edge technology and remaining at the avant-garde,” says Associate Curator, Asian Art Tarun Nagesh.

“To really suggest these broader ideas of art and culture and even architecture where there is a strong sense in Japan of tradition.

“But really around the world everyone looks to Japan for technology and being highly advanced and experimenting with materials.”

The evolution of Japanese fashion is explored in the exhibition through four main themes: In praise of shadows, tradition and innovation, cool Japan and designers.

It begins with the inception of modern Japanese design when Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto debuted their first collections in the early 1980s. 

Tarun says the collections were a stark contrast to the entrenched western aesthetic.

“It was so radically different to what other European designers were doing at the time.

“It really shows how Japanese designers have continued to be really innovative over the last few decades, bringing whole new concepts and new approaches to fashion design.”

Throughout the displays it’s evident that Japanese designers instinctively intermingle art and fashion - where silhouettes, prints and materials (and the treatment of materials) have the same quality as contemporary art.

In fact, a display of Japanese art accompanies the exhibition. Some of the designers spill over into the artistic wold, while other works compliment the garment design.

Whether it’s Koji Tatsuno dramatic ensembles, Rei Kawakubo’s oversized structures or Junya Watanabe’s stark use of colour, Japanese designers seem to approach fashion more with an innovative concept in mind rather than pandering to idealised sensibilities about beauty.

And this idea isn’t going away. Future Beauty also showcases emerging designers.

“In the exhibition there’s quite a few younger labels that cater to a specific sub-culture or draw from a specific influence that really shows the broader sub-cultures emerging in Japan,” says Tarun.

“So some relate to Manga and anime and some more to a Lolita look or a Kawaii look, you know the idea of the cute and the Cosplay.

“But there’s all these labels that have kind of emerged and become cult figures for very specific niche audiences, which I think are really fascinating.”

The exhibition is travelling, beginning in 2011. Tarun says Brisbane is the last leg of the tour.

 “So we’ve kind of got the most updated version, which includes labels that have only emerged in the last couple of years as well as there’s some really recent collections. 

“There’s some really recent collections there’s even 2014 collections from Rei Kawakubo.”

What’s the future of Japanese design? Well, with the country still pushing fashion progression along with the expanding abilities of technology, it’s hard to determine. But what will always remain true to Japan is its deeply ingrained and widely renowned sense of tradition.

Above Image: As supplied by GOMA. Left: Undercover (Jun Takahashi) / Spring/Summer 2006 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Masayuki Hayashi ) Right: Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons / Autumn/Winter 2009–10 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Masayuki Hayashi

Image: Sculpture work by Yayoi Kusama, on show at GOMA, at the same time as Future Beauty.

Image: As supplied by GOMA. Left and Right: Cool Japan Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo ) / Spring/Summer 1997 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Takashi Hatakeyama

Above: Japanese artwork on show at GOMA, at the same time as Future Beauty

Above: As Supplied by GOMA. Left: Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons / Spring/Summer 2002 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Takashi Hatakeyama Right: Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons / Autumn/Winter 2000 – 01 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Takashi Hatakeyama

Above: Japanese artwork on show at GOMA at the same time as Future Beauty. 

Above: As Supplied by GOMA. Left: Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo) / Spring/Summer 2007 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Taishi Hirokawa Right:Yohji Yamamoto / Spring/Summer 1995 / Collection: Kyoto Costume Institute / Photograph: Takashi Hatakeyama