Images: Jonathan Rae
N.L.P didn’t present a collection, it presented a
tribe. There’s no frail waifs, just a band of powerful Amazonians. Or you could
describe them as low-budget Avatars with post-Woodford folk festival hair. N.L.P dancers
took to the stage with a fierce animalistic performance, surely making their
Instagram legions swoon. N.L.P is still presenting the same kind of neoprene
bathing pieces that shot them to success – with the likes of Beyoncé and Jourdan
Dunn donning their suits. But Nikki Lee Penny’s togs are becoming more progressive
with strap detailing and a greater appropriation of clothing and swimwear
design. If anything, the label seems a little stagnant. But if it ain’t broke,
right?
Images: Jonathan Rae
Christopher
Esber’s SS14/15 collection had me thinking of Billy Joel’s lyrics, “She's
nobody's fool, but she can't be convicted. She's earned her degree and the most
she will do is throw shadows at you. But she's always a woman to me”. The Esber
girl is somewhere between progressive corporate and the first lady of the
future. Esber outfits are business on top, party on the bottom (or vice versa).
He teamed up double-breasted jackets with shorts, black A-line dresses with
daring slits and strapless leather tops with trousers. Esber says he
took inspiration from navy suiting and militaristic themes. Though, some of the
pieces seemed a little derivative of Raf Simon’s Fall 2014 for Dior – referencing
their coats and unavoidable Stepford Wives look. But perhaps Christopher Esber
is resurrecting the ‘New Look’ in modern Australian design. His works are
tasteful, give structured silhouettes and are for women and ladies alike.
Words: Saskia Edwards
Images: Jonathan Rae
You can
hear the echoes of Sppriingg Breaak
Forreeveerr in Emma Mulholland SS14/15. Her collections always seem to have
underlying themes of teen apathy with the visual flair of Saved By the Bell.
Emma’s styling is invariably captivating in its eccentricities. This time
there’s no tropically spray-painted hairpieces. Rather, models donned bright
mushroom top wigs, much like Romance Was Born SS13/14’s hair styling. Emma
Mulholland falls back on her signature kitch-80s aesthetic complete with a bum
bags and oversized jumpers. Her neon colour palate, sparkly socks and palm tree
motifs all transport me to 1980s Bondi Beach - cowabunga dude.
Images: Jonathan Rae
Personalised
Reeboks; Karla Spetic just take my money already. Karla’s monochromatic pieces
were shown at the Eora poolside, but the only trace of a dip was wet-look hair.
Karla Spetic SS14/15 is full of sheer panelling, collared shirt, and tailoring
motifs. Plus a dash of glitter and ruffles. Many of the cuts are reminiscent of
Karla Spetic’s previous design – mid length dresses with thigh high slits,
digitally-cut chest plate designs and androgynous trousers. However, there was
none of the wild digital prints or bold colour blocks that was once instantly
identifiable as KS. Either way, Karla Spetic has an ineffable ability to
present a tasteful, on-trend and irresistible collection.
